|UNDERFLOOR HEATING||YES||NOT RECOMENDED||YES|
|KITCHEN||WIPE SPILLS QUICKLY||NOT RECOMMENDED||YES|
|BATHROOM||NOT RECOMMENDED||NOT RECOMMENDED||YES|
|OUTDOORS AREA||NOT RECOMMENDED||NOT RECOMMENDED||NOT RECOMENDED|
This is becoming the most popular option for majority of people who want real wood.
All the benefits of a real wood without some of the common hassles
- Less likely to react to temperature change / moisture which means unlikely to have creaking noise.
- Far more options and ranges available so always a type for everyone 😊.
- Much easier to install because of the reduced movement, not needed to be nailed down or glued down.
- Less acclimatization period required as only needs to be left for 48hrs unlike the two weeks required for solid floors.
- Like solid wood, the veneer is a natural product so you can expect the natural variation and texture which make this a beautiful option.
- You can always sand down after many years of usage to refinish or repair marks and scratches.
Vinyl has a come a long way from its early days aesthetically speaking,
As you might be aware by now, there are an imitation of other types of flooring such as stone, wood and tiles. This means you can expect to have an abundance of selection not just on our website but with most of our competitors as well as there are just so many to pick from.
The question of course is why Vinyl planks and not the real thing?
- Unlike real stones / tile vinyl planks is less likely not break or crack if a heavy item is dropped,
- When using tiles most people recommend using underfloor heating as there can be cold to touch which is not the case with Vinyl’s
- Real woods are beautiful to look at with their natural variation, but a big drawback is there can scratch easily, now vinyl floors can also scratch but it will usually take a lot more to mark hence a more durable option.
- Did we say waterproof? Perfect option for bathrooms and kitchens.
As the name implies is a piece of wood that is solid all through.
The lifespan of solid woods in general is what makes this a great selection as due to its robust structure, you can sand down a few times.
To find out how many Square metre is needed, simply measure the length and the width of the rooms in metres. Multiply them to give you the total Square metre needed.
Example: Rectangular room
The length is 5 metres.
The width is 2 metres.
Square metre needed will be 5 x 2 = 10 m2 (we recommend 5 – 10 % extra for wastage to be added on)
Example: Square room
The length is 5 metres.
The width is 5 metres.
Square metre needed is 5 x 5 = 25 m2 (we recommend 5 – 10 % extra for wastage to be added on)
If you find yourself with an L shaped room
Simply divide the area into two breaking the rooms at the point where there join. Then add the total together.
Example: L shaped room
The long part of the L shape has a length of 8 metres and a width of 4 metres = 32m2
The shorter part of the L shape has a length of 4 metres and a width of 4 metres = 16 m2
The total area needed will be 32 + 16 = 48m2 (we recommend 5 – 10 % extra for wastage to be added on)
This can also be used when having to measure rooms with multiple shapes, simple divide the rooms into different areas.
To work out your stairs you will need to measure the depth of the riser, the depth of the thread, the width of the thread and how many steps is being covered.
10 steps at 0.9 metre wide, depth of thread at 0.25 and riser at 0.2
0.25 (thread depth) + 0.2 (riser depth) = 0.45
0.45 x 0.9 (width of thread) = 0.41m2 per step
0.41m2 x 10 (number of steps) = 4.1m2 is area needed (we recommend 5 – 10 % extra for wastage to be added on)